“I was surfing down in California with Zac McSpadden, it was my first time surfing and we paddled out probably like 100 yards and next thing you know there is a seal that pops up. So I was on the board  and Zac was just waiting in the water and I turn around and ditch Zac with the seal and I went to try and go back to shore and a huge wave came in and took me under. That’s the story about how I almost drowned. It was pretty fun and I would do it again but I’m glad I didn’t die or drown.”